Dining Tidbits

Magic oven, fusion, new, and budget beat

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NEW
Zak's Place
Informal but not quite casual, upscale without being exorbitant, Zak's isn't about to startle anyone with its wood-paneled walls and protein-focused menu. What is surprising is just how capable the kitchen is. It's not just the 22-ounce bone-in rib eye that's perfectly cooked; it's the grilled asparagus, too, and the crispy steak fries—called Zak's potatoes. And while he treads familiar ground, chef Marc Stein isn't a total slave to tradition. Instead of yet another caesar salad, he offers smoky grilled romaine with chipotle ranch dressing and pico de gallo. To round out Zak's appeal, Yamandu Perez, a co-owner and former sommelier for Gabe Viti, has assembled a solid, New World–heavy wine list. 112 S. Washington St., Hinsdale; 630-323-9257. –Nathaniel Zimmer

Photography: Kendall Karmanian